Lotus Mandala Circular Vest

After seeing some great circular vests and talking about them with a fellow crocheter last festival, I came home inspired to do something I’ve had in my notebook for a while – rework my Lotus Throw pattern into a mandala-based circular vest! Which I did, and actually I did twice, which is why this post is a two-parter – each with a different FREE pattern guide based on my FREE Lotus Throw design.

Act 1 can be found here.

UPDATE 1/31/17: I have added a FAQ PageΒ for this pattern to answer some commonly asked questions!
UPDATE AGAIN 7/26/17: I have created a tutorial for adding sleeves to this vest! See this post for the free add-on πŸ™‚

ACT 2

LotusVest7.jpg

This pattern sizes the armholes wider and and further apart than the small-sized duster to be more size-inclusive and also because it’s a more open style vest, but it’s very easy to modify this to make it smaller or larger by moving the armholes closer together / further apart and chaining fewer/more stitches. Just remember that the stitch counts may not be the same – but since it’s worked in a circle, just make sure you follow the rounds and begin & end the rows as instructed and the count shouldn’t matter too much.

This pattern uses 8 skeins of Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, 1 ea of the first four colors in the inner ring and 2 ea of the 2 outer colors.

DSCN5073

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton doesn’t have the same springy soft feel as Cotton-Ease (a cotton blend yarn I like for crochet halter tops) but what it does have is a bright sheen and a great color selection. Combined with the #4 weight and sleek durable texture, it’s lovely for swingy fringe-y summer outwear and bags – not to mention drippily colorful hippie coverups. Speaking of which, it was the PERFECT yarn for this bright mandala vest.

Lotus Circular Vest

LotusVest1

Materials:

5.50 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Tangerine (1 skein), Rose (1 skein), Silver (1 skein), Lilac (1 skein), Purple (2 skeins), and Denim (2 skeins)

OR

Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (2 skeins)

Notes:

You can change colors on any round, but I changed colors at the beginning of the following rounds: 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 30, following the same color order as listed in the materials for 24/7 Cotton. The first 16 rounds of the Mandala are kinda complex HOWEVER they are identical to the first 16 rounds of the Lotus Duster, the sister pattern to this design, and that pattern has a full-length video tutorial for the first 16 rounds on my YouTube channel here – so if you struggle during those rounds, please refer to the video to help clarify! πŸ™‚

Gauge: 3.25β€³ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
22.5β€³ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50β€³ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge

Terms:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Tr3tog: *YO twice, insert hk into indicated st or sp and draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) twice, leaving one loop unworked.* Rpt from * to * two more times – 4 lps on the hook. YO and draw through all 4 loops.

Tr2tog: *YO twice, insert hk into indicated st or sp and draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) twice, leaving one loop unworked.* Rpt from * to * once more – 3 lps on the hook. YO and draw through all 3 lps.

Scallop: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc

CircVest1

Instructions

Make Magic Ring.

  1. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
  2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
  3. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
  4. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  5. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  6. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
  7. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells
  8. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces
  9. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc in which you worked the previous treble, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. Fig 1. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7. Fig 2.) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
  10. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4. Fig 3. Β – 48 clusters + 16 dc
  1. (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc. Fig 4.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters
  1. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. 5. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. Fig 6. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Fig 7. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
  1. Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts
  2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces

Rnds 10-14 are highlighted below.

Rnd12

  1. (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops
  2. Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192 sts

Extra Sizing Option: Dc, ch-2 rpts. You can add one or two Extra Rounds as written below to increase the size by a few inches.

Extra Rnd 1: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 2, sk next st) 94 times. Dc in the next st, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-5.

Extra Rnd 2: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2) 94 times. Dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Armhole Round:

If you worked the extra rounds, follow the Alternate Rnd 17 instructions presented in italics under the original Rnd 17 below.

  1. Ch 43 – counts as first dc + ch 40. Sk next 24 sts, dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 22 times. Dc in the next st, ch 40, sk next 24 sts. Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 47 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-43.

Β 17 (Alternate).Ch 43 – counts as first dc + ch 40. Sk next 11 spaces, dc in the next space, ch 1. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) 22 times. Dc in the next space, ch 40, sk next 11 spaces. Dc in the next space, ch 1. (Dc in the next space, ch 2) around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-43. If you worked the extra rounds, you can resume the pattern as written from here.

Check to see if it fits!

DSCN5071

The horizontal distance between the armholes should match the distance between your shoulders. You can move the armholes closer together for smaller width shoulders, or further apart for wider. This can also change the fit of the vest – closer armholes mean a closer fit at the neck, further armholes mean a more draping back and open neckline.

Measuring from the lower half of the armhole should match the measurement around the back of the ribcage, or from armpit to armpit if you measure from the bottoms of the armholes

Since the human body isn’t a circle, this isn’t an exact science, so don’t worry if you don’t get your measurements exactly right. This is meant to be a draping piece and not a tailored suit anyway.

Here are some tips for adjusting:
– If your Fig 9 measurement is too small, place more repeats between the armhole chains to make them further apart. If your Fig 9 measurement is too large, place fewer repeats between armholes to make them closer together.
– You can add or subtract chain stitches in the armhole round to make the armholes smaller or larger.
-You can skip more or less stitches/spaces underneath the armhole chain to make the armhole smaller or larger

Keep in mind that making these changes will alter the total stitch count from what is written – as long as you make the repeats around, the counts aren’t as crucial from here.

18. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 Dc in ea dc or ch stΒ  around entire circle. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 224 sts

19. (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next st***) 111 times. Sc in the next dc, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces
*** If you have worked the Extra Rounds and Alternate Rnd 17, work the repeat as follows: (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next 2 sts) around.

20. Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 110 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces

21. Rpt Rnd 20

22. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch space, Β ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 111 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 112 ch-3 spaces

23. Sc in the space formed by the side of the hdc join of the previous round. Ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 110 times. Β Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-4 spaces

24. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 110 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-4 spaces

25. Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 110 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-5 spaces

26-28. Rpt rnd 25.

29. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 110 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-6 spaces

Extra sizing option: If you are making a larger vest, you can add extra repeats of Rnd 29 here. Remember however that there are only so many repeats you can achieve in a circle before you have to increase the amount of chain sts between sc stitches to account for the added diameter.

30. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 111 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 112 fans

31. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sc in 3rdΒ dc of fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2. (Dc in next sc, ch 2. Sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 110 times. Dc in the next sc, ch 2, sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-5. – 336 ch spaces

32. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 2 dc in the same space, ch 1. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1) 111 times. 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Sl st in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 784 dc sts + 336 ch spaces

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

Close-ups of the first 23 or so rounds…

Armhole measuring…

DSCN5071
I made the shoulder width around 15″ for the basic pattern.

The colors of the yarn are so addictive combined with this pattern, I am sure I’ll be making more of these!

-MF

548 thoughts on “Lotus Mandala Circular Vest

Add yours

  1. I absolutely loved making this!!! It was fun and easy to follow. Thank you for sharing your work!!!

  2. Thank you so much for sharing this pattern. I did one in heather gray and it is beauriful. Thank you!

      1. The YouTube tutorial by Cindyloowho has alot of mistakes !! She also changes the original written pattern. Thankful that I found this written pattern and am following it. Many tips, color changes….., Should have been mentioned at beginning of tutorial, not several rows later.

  3. Hi! I gave your vest and try and it was awesome! I would love to send you a pic. can you give me your email maybe or are you on IG? I can tag you when I post it on there. Awesome pattern and so so so easy to read πŸ™‚

    1. Hooray! Yes, I’d love to see a picture – you can send it to me via e-mail at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com, or tag me on Instagram, my username is moralefiber
      I’m so glad you like it! πŸ™‚

  4. I am currently working your pattern with Valley Yarns Mercerized Cotton Flake Noho and loving it. I’m also looking at a cotton nylon twisted yarn and was wondering if you had any experience with this type of yarn used with this pattern.

    1. Hi Dee! For the Cotton Nylon blend yarn, I haven’t had any experience working this pattern with a yarn like that, but it does sound like it would work well – cotton blends are the best for this pattern, and nylon sounds like it would add nice drape!

  5. I am making this beautiful vest and I’m having trouble with #4 instruction where it reads: Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. I have a lot left over with no stitches if I only repeat 7 times. What am I doing wrong?

    1. Hi Jamie! So, Rnd 3 has 8 chain spaces total. In Rnd 4, you are working (4-dc cluster, ch 2) twice in ea of the 8 chain spaces. Based on what you are describing, my guess is that you read the repeat as a repeat 7 times in the next ch-3 space, rather than to repeat in each of the next 7 ch-3 spaces. In the parentheses, each “next space” refers to the next space relative to the last space worked into each time you repeat it – easy to get confused on that! Does that make sense? If my guess is wrong and you are having a different problem, let me know! πŸ™‚

  6. I cannot believe that I have made this, it turned out beautiful! I copied yours with one exception – used green instead of orange for the centre. My daughter is thrilled and can’t wait to get her hands on it! I was surprised how quickly I made it – just under 2 weeks of mostly evenings. I did need the help from the You Tube videos as I am a self-taught crocheter and have only made granny squares before, but even so, it has turned out perfectly. I am already thinking my daughter needs one in black for her job, and a white/neutral one would be lovely for the summer over dresses. You are a very talented designer! Thank you!

    1. Awww yay! Thank you so much for your kind words, I am so happy that you enjoyed the design! Someone recently sent me a picture of one they made in a silvery-white neutral color and it was absolutely beautiful, I’d like to do one in black as well – addictive isn’t it! lol

  7. Thank you for this pattern! I was able to make myself a vest for my birthday! I receive spo many compliments on it! Your pattern was easy to follow☺

  8. I ordered one off of here at the end of January and I still have yet received it. Did it get lost of shipping or does it usually takes this long ? Please email me back as soon as you can

    1. Hi Beth, I’m a bit confused about what you are describing – there is no method of ordering anything directly from my blog. I do have pattern PDF files for this design available both through Etsy and Ravelry, but those are digital files and do not require any shipping. Can you tell me which website you ordered from so that I can find the transaction?
      Thanks for your patience,
      MF

  9. I’m attempting to do your gorgeous vest but I’m having issues. I can’t make it so it flattens out, it keeps bending as if I’m trying to make a hat. I’ve redone the first 4-6 rows multiple times but no matter what I do it keeps bending.

    Please help me!

    1. Hi Tiffany, it sounds like the easiest thing to do, since you’ve redone this multiple times, is send me a picture of your first 4 -6 rounds and I will see if I can immediately tell what is going on or not. Normally I’d ask a few questions to see if I could guess first, but we’ll skip that πŸ™‚ If possible, you can send me a picture at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com and I will try to diagnose what is happening. If you aren’t capable of sending me a picture let me know!

  10. I am kinda confused. I have done the extra rounds before round 17 (arm holes). I know I chain 43, but when it says “” Sk next 24 sts or if you worked the extra sizing rounds, sk next 11 spaces, dc in the next st/sp, ch 1, sk next st.”” what am I counting?

    1. Hi Mandie! So since you made the extra rounds, you have ch-2 spaces instead of individual stitches. So where the normal pattern skips a certain number of stitches in order to make the space for the armhole, you will be skipping 11 chain spaces. To do this, count out 11 ch-2 spaces and skip them entirely, then work your next double crochet in the 12th chain space from the start of the skip. You will also be working your double crochets into ch-2 spaces instead of individual stitches. Make sense?

  11. Hi

    Firstly love your pattern. Am using a Caron cakes type yarn and it’s worked up beautifully.

    I have a problem though. From around row 23/24 ish with the ending and starting a new round.

    I have been following the YouTube video.

    You say to do a dc in last sc Stitch and then sc in the same stitch Chain 5 and then sc in next stitch. In the video she seems to put the sc after the dc in the next chain space?

    In your photo just inside the armhole you can’t see a pattern change but in my vest you can. I can’t get a good view on the YouTube video to see where I am going wrong if I am, or what it should look like. Does the sc go in the same stitch as the DC as it says in your pattern or in the next Chain space like on the video. Maybe I am understanding it wrong?

    Can you help please?

    Do you have a close up of the armhole area where the end and starts take place so I can compare mine.

    Thank you! X

    1. Hi, I am so glad you are enjoying the pattern! I am not sure how exactly it is done in the video, but I will tell you how I wrote it – I think either way works well! I can’t find a close-up picture anywhere but I will see if I can describe what’s going on:
      So since you are working a mesh of chain spaces with each sc placed in the middle of a chain space, you want to close the round so that you can begin the next round in the middle of a space. To do that, you work the double crochet to stand in for the last few chain stitches of the last chain space – which lands your hook in the middle of the last space created by combining chain stitches and a double crochet. This last space, created by combining chain stitches and a double crochet, is the space you single crochet into to start the next round. Does that make sense?

    1. Hi there! There are several strategies for making this design larger:
      – Space the armholes further apart
      -Add extra rounds right before the armholes (instructions for this are now included in the written pattern)
      -Add extra repeats of the sc, ch-6 mesh at Rnd 29
      You can also make the armholes a little bigger by chaining more and skipping more stitches to create the armhole. Of course, there is also the route of using a bigger hook to make it larger as well!

  12. Sorry I am making the circle vest for my daughter she wants it to be really big I have added 5 more rounds I have 96 open spaces I can’t figure out how many to get the arm hole bigger and where to start or on the other side I’m sorry to bother you with this if you could help me I would be so great full.I am using Artiste #8 crochet cotton I will try to send you a picture of it thank you so much.

    1. Hi Myrna! Sounds like you are on the right track so far. Just a few questions – are you trying to make the actual armholes bigger, or are you just trying to place them farther apart? Or both? πŸ™‚ Sounds awesome with the crochet cotton, you can send me a picture at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com, unfortunately WordPress doesn’t let you post pictures in the comments.

  13. I’m trying to make the armhole bigger and farther apart her arms are fair size thank you for your web site will send you a picture.

    1. The original pattern calls for a 40 chain stitch length to complete the upper part of the armhole, and skipping 11 chain spaces (if you worked the extra rounds, which you did) to form the lower part. So, to approximate, that’s about 3 chain spaces skipped for every 10 chain stitches on the armhole – using this ratio, say you wanted to increase the length of the armhole to 50 chain stitches, you’d skip 14 chain spaces, and if you wanted to increase to 60, you’d skip 17 chain spaces.

      As for spacing the armholes further apart, you’ll need to take the measurement shown in the photos on either the blog post or the PDF pattern and be guided by that – I measure from the edge of one shoulderblade to the outer edge of the other, and use that measurement to figure out how far apart to space the armholes.

      Does that help? πŸ™‚

      1. If you add to the chain for the arm holes, say like 50, when you are on your next row would you double crochet 2 together 5 times on each side to get back to the count of 241

  14. Regina I’m sorry to bother you again my shawl is rolling up after row 16 it’s like each row is staying the same instead of adding stitching I’m so flustered I have pulled out more than I’ve gotten done what am I doing wrong ?I need to add arm hole 60 stitchs I followed the extra row inst. it stilled rolled I just pulled out 7 rows 😀I’m sorry to be a pain I sent another picture to you email hope it comes thru thanks so much.

    1. Hi Myrna, sorry to hear you are having trouble! I didn’t see any e-mail with pictures from you, even checked the spam folder so I’m not sure what’s happening there.
      So if you are adding the Extra Sizing option, I found that there was a SLIGHT tension on Extra Round 2, but it didn’t affect the piece once I had worked the rows after that – if you are experiencing rolling after Extra Rnd 2, before the armhole round, it could be tightness exaggerated by difference in gauge or yarn. Which rows were the ones you had to pull out when you pulled out the 7 rows?
      If you want to try sending me a picture again my e-mail is reginaalexisweiss@gmail.com, or if you have Facebook, you can send images in a private message to my business page here:
      http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
      Again, sorry to hear about the frustration! I’m no stranger to being totally stymied on a project, it’s no fun at all! I’ll try my best to help figure it out πŸ™‚

      1. Hi Regina well I put the Shaw down came back a few days later got the stupid out of my head of over thinking it’s going great know . How do you work the strings in ? The heavy thread hides the thread this being so small didn’t know if there is a better way than just running it in and out 😁Thank you I’ll send a picture

      2. Oh good! For hiding the thread, I always try to get to a section of double crochets if at all possible, that way I can run the thread or yarn through the middle of the stitch up and down a couple of times. The mesh part is trickier, I usually try to go back and forth on a chain length and then “anchor” the end by running it around and through a single crochet. I’d love to see pictures! You can send them to reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com πŸ˜€

    1. I would definitely hand wash these, a soak in room temp water with a little mild detergent and using press/gentle squeeze washing should do it. As far as blocking goes, you can lay it out in a flat circle to dry and block it that way, but I usually put it on my dress form and let it hang for a couple of days to form it into the right shape!

      1. Thanks, need to get me a dress form. I made your pattern with carbon simply soft party. It came out BEAUTIFUL!

  15. Excellent video. You made the written pattern so easy to follow. I can normally follow patterns but I had some trouble with the one I had for some reason…But when I found your video n this one, I was thrilled. I am at Row 19 or 20 and I’m having fun making it and seeing it develop. I have to make 2 of these. My daughter (s) and friend will be thrilled with these. I’ve had to rip out a couple rows twice but it was my fault. The 2nd one will go so much easier I’m sure.
    I am using the Caron Cake to make these and it is working so easy n looks great.
    Thank you again for taking your time to video

    1. Thanks so much! I am so glad you enjoy the design, however, the video isn’t mine. It was made by a fellow blogger who I gave permission to make a video from the written pattern – but all the same thank you so much for your kind words! πŸ™‚

  16. I have a question about increasing the size of the arm holes. If I increase to 60 stitches, on the next row would I do decrease stitches so that I could get back to the count of 224.

  17. hi im trying to work this vest using Alize diva with silk and mercerized effect that recommends a 2.5mm to 3.5 mm crochet hook.Im wondering would it work using a small hook to make an adult sized vest following your pattern?or its better to work with a large hook 6mm) and two strands of yarn?thanks

    1. If you are wanting to work with the yarn that small, you will definitely need at least a 5.5 mm hook to get an adult size vest – maybe even a bigger hook than that. It would depend on your gauge, which you can check after Rnd 3 – the diameter of the circle at that point should be about 3 – 3.25″. If you get to Rnd 3 and your circle is smaller than 3″ across, you’ll have to size up your hook or your yarn or both. The two-strand method would work really nicely, but you’ll definitely need a lot of yarn for that πŸ™‚

  18. sorry for bothering you but i want to double check, you think working with thin yarn and small hook and sizing up won’t work?i want to make sure before starting so i won’t take time in figuring out the right method.im making the vest with 8 colors and i already bought yarn😞

    1. Oh no worries, you’re not bothering me! If you followed the recommendations for sizing up, it might work to use a smaller hook. However, I would recommend just using a larger hook with the thinner yarn to be sure, either a 5.5 or a 6.0. What size are you trying to achieve?

      1. i started working my vest yesterday using a6mm and after rnd 3 i measured the circle and it was less than the gauge recommended.So i sized up my hook and used a 7mm which is working nicely until now.i have another question, i was asked to make a longer version than the one you made should i follow your jester pattern or it will work if i continue repeating the last round here on the vest.im making a medium sized vest.

      2. The round I usually recommend for making several repeats to increase the length of the vest is Rnd 29, which is the last part of the diamond mesh portion of the pattern. This is a good place to add length because of the way the diamond mesh stretches πŸ™‚ There are also two extra rounds written in after Rnd 16 as an option for making things longer/larger, if the person you are making this for is fairly tall, I would add those in too.

  19. I fell in love with this Mandala pattern! I am currently working on mine as a project to go over my wedding dress in May. It’s been a mildly frustrating project because I keep misreading the pattern and not realizing it for a few rows…. But I’m better now. πŸ˜‰ I’m working with a variety of yarn, including a recycled silk waste yarn, cotton yarn, some acrylic, and others yet to be determined. I have 4 yr old twin girls who are demanding I make them one too… It’s hard to tell them know when they have such great taste! Thanks for providing such a beautiful free pattern, and I’ll send you a picture when it’s done!

  20. This mandala vest is gorgeous and planning to do the same, the mandalas have always fascinated me!! Curious…how could you use shawl in a ball to make one it these when the thread is so small, a small hook? Love your creations!

    1. Thanks so much! Actually even though Shawl in a Ball is a lot different feeling than the 24/7 cotton I originally used for this design, both yarns are in the same weight category (#4) so I use the same size hook. As long as the gauge is the same it works out πŸ™‚

  21. hi regina, how are you? im the one who told you that am working this pattern using double strands of mercerized cotton yarn with a 7m.m hook(to obtain the gauge). but now im stuck on rnd 13-14 because its curling up.i took it off trying to work loosely but it ends up curling.how can i fix that?

    1. Oh yes, I remember! When you say that it is “curling up” I take it to mean that Round 13 or 14 is too tight, which causes the circular pattern to pucker inward, right? Rnd 13 is 5 dc in each chain space and one dc in each tr2together cluster and one dc in each 4 dc cluster. Make sure you are working your double crochet stitches into the chain spaces, not into the chain stitches themselves. If you are already doing all of that and it is still puckering, you can send me a picture at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com and I’ll see if I can find anything else that might be going wrong.

  22. Hi! How about a condensed easy to follow pdf?? Pleaaaassseee?!? Im in love but im getting lost already,lol.

    1. Hi Carolyn! There is a PDF available for purchase through my Ravelry store and Etsy store, which includes a PDF with a few more tutorial photos and also a print-friendly PDF, but the written instructions are the same as they are on the blog. I’d love to make a chart for this pattern to make it quicker to read but I just can’t seem to find good chart making software for the life of me!

  23. This vest is awesome! I’m trying so hard to make it but I get confused on how and where to join some of the rounds. I’m about to give up.
    I admit I’m not an expert at crocheting but I have been crocheting for quite sometime. I’m using Redheart Unforgettable to make this. I haven’t made it far. I seem to have issues with starting on a certain round too.
    Either way, I think your vest is awesome. I just wish I could figure it out πŸ™

    1. I can definitely help you on any round that you need help on! Just let me know the specific place on the specific round and I can walk you through it (and if you want pictures, I can e-mail you some).

      1. That would be great! I just followed your page on Facebook. I can message you there or email works too. Thank you so much!
        I’ll be giving it another go once my morning coffee gets made.

  24. Hello, firstly thank you for the gorgeous pattern, I’m really enjoying making it. I have a question about rows 22/23. I’m a little confused how you can do 2 dc in each chain space in row 22 and then a sc in each chain space in row 23 but have no increase in the number of repeats? Surely there will be twice as many? Also, I’m finding that row 22 is ruffling a lot. I’m fairly new to crochet so I’m not sure if I’m misunderstanding something. Many thanks.

    1. Hi Joni! So both Rnds 22 and 23 work exclusively in the chain spaces created by the stitch and chain combinations. Rnd 22 is a repeat of (dc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the next space) around which is essentially a V-stitch. So even though 2 double crochet stitches are going into each chain space of the round below, you are only creating ONE chain space per chain space of the round below. Since Rnd 23 works exclusively in the chain spaces, and you haven’t created any increase in the number of chain spaces, the rpt number stays the same.

      You should definitely be getting some ruffle happening at this point πŸ™‚ depending on the yarn you are using, it may look a lot more ruffley than it does in the pictures. If you are concerned it is too ruffley, you are welcome to send me a picture at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com and I’ll check it out for you!

    1. I’m sure that something similar could be achieved with knitting, but I wouldn’t have any idea how to do it! My knitting skills are pretty limited (at the moment) πŸ˜‰

  25. Hi I can’t find the size for this pattern! I probably just went past it! πŸ˜‰

  26. I am a little confused about the 4-dc cluster. In the original it says after you have completed all 4 dc’s you will have 4 loops on your hook and you pull through all 4. In the update that I saw it says there should be 5 loops on the hook and pull through all 5. Would you mind clarifying? I am still learning to read a pattern.

    1. Hi Holly, it should be pull through 5 loops, unless the cluster is the very first stitch in the round, which will make it 4. When you are referring to the “original” and the “update”, are you talking about the pattern on the blog? Or the PDF file? Just asking so I know what to double-check πŸ™‚ Thanks and hope that clears it up!

  27. I printed the blog pattern in January and don’t see the comment about the 5 loops like I saw of the PDF version. It may have been there and I just didn’t get it printed. But I did figure it out by watching the YouTube video. Thanks for answering and it is a beautiful vest.

  28. Hi there,
    I’m currently making this and am almost finished. So beautiful! Using Red Heart Unorgetable yarn in Teal berry. Want to thank you for posting pics of the rows and finished vest really helped me when I had an issue understanding certain areas or were just unsure of what I was doing. Again, many thanks!

  29. Hi, first of all that you for this beautiful pattern! I am however stuck at the extra sizing option, I’m confused as to what the difference is between the extra sizing option and the extra round 1 and extra round 2.

    To make it bigger do I just do the dc, ch 1 repeats (also is it dc, ch1 and skip a stitch or do i not skio a stitch?) Until I’m happy with the size? But I’m still confused as to the extra rounds 1 and 2.

    1. Hi Abi! Thanks for the compliment πŸ™‚ The “Extra Rnd 1” and “Extra Rnd 2” are in fact the “extra sizing option” described in the paragraph just before – they’re the same thing. I can see that was confusing so I have edited the intro just before these two rounds to try and make that more clear! To get more size, just work those two rounds as written. I wouldn’t recommend working more than two rounds, though, because the circular motif will start to pucker – you can add more size later by repeating some of the diamond mesh section.

  30. Hi there,
    Thank you for this superb pattern πŸ™‚ I’m very new to crochet and making this is teaching me so much and I’m addicted! I have made many mistakes and had to redo many rounds but I’ve finally got to round 19 and redone it 4 times but it keeps on curling in like a bowl…any tips? (I’ve tried adding a chain between each DC but it didn’t help as much as I would like)
    Kind regards from bonny (rainy) scotland

    1. Hi Carol! My first question is, how bad is the pucker? When I work the extra 2 extra sizing rounds with my 5.50 hook and my preferred yarn, there DOES begin to be a slight tension like the circle is beginning to want to curl inward – but when I work it it is usually not obvious yet and the following round corrects the problem. However, if yours is curling severely it could be a result of gauge difference. Since you have already tried adding an extra chain to your spaces, I might suggest trying it with a different hook size, maybe a 6.00 or 6.50 – it could be that your chain stitching is too tight with your current yarn and hook combo.

  31. Hi Regina, I am having the bending in like a hat problem after Round 4. Can you tell me what the problem is? I am using the suggested yarn and hook size but it looks like a “mini” hat. Thanks for your help.

    Terri

    1. Hi Terri! The majority of the time the problem people have with Rnd 4 is that they have read it wrong – I don’t know if that is the case with yours, but to clarify there should be TWO clusters per chain space with ch-2’s in between each one. πŸ™‚ I think that round catches a lot of people off guard because the first space works only one cluster, then adds the second at the end of the round. I am currently working on getting all of the stitch counts at the end of each round added in for this pattern to help correct that confusion – I am almost done with that so the blog post pattern will be updated soon! Thanks and if that doesn’t help let me know! πŸ™‚

Leave a Reply

Up ↑

%d bloggers like this: